NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 10:59a on 03/23/19 - Temperature: 30.2 °F - Wind speed: 6.0 mph - Wind chill: 22.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.341 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 56 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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December 10, 2015

Hi Folks,

OK, OK, OK, OK… I get it. Nobody is happy with the state of the climate right now. At least nobody who is into winter sports, like pretty much everyone I know who lives up here - and all you folks anxiously perusing this Report. And to be honest with you, tho I’m taking advantage of the state of our weather pattern as best I can, I’m not all that happy about it either. Just like you, I have my XC-skis, crampons, ice axes, screws and cold weather outerwear all ready to go. Shoot - I’ve even swapped out the lawn tractor and snowblower, to no avail. And that usually will do the trick! [sigh]

Well, as I have mentioned a number of times, all I can do is to take advantage of what’s given to me. And for now, that’s basically rock climbing and mountain biking. Last Saturday was so balmy that I went down to LongStack to climb with George Hurley. While the ground seemed crusty and a bit frozen in places in the shade, in the sun it was amazing. The crag is totally south facing so the sun was amazingly warm.


George had his eye on a line in the middle of the Indigenous Wall. He’d been working it on top rope and wanted to try and lead it. While he did manage the lead, he didn’t get it clean. I gave it a shot on TR and thought it was really hard, probably in the 10c range, certainly above my pay-grade! Unfortunately, after talking about it with some locals, it turned out that the middle of the route crossed an existing line, so that one’s off the table. Pretty cool that he’s still making it happen at 80 tho.


When I was rapping off I noticed a line just to the left that looked appealing. There was one other party at the cliff and I asked what they thought. They said it was called The Stroke, rated at 5.9, so I decided to give it a shot. The start that goes up to a nice ledge was easy enough. The next bit required a 12’ piece of fairly steep friction, with no gear. [hmmm] I decided to sling a small tree just in the hope that if I slipped off I “might” not go to the ground. It took me a few minutes to find the exact combination of nubbins and crimpers, and once I got it I happily clipped the bolt. The next moves to a horizontal about 12 feet higher were almost as hard, but if I fell off at least I wouldn’t go to the ground. Some more thin climbing continued up to the headwall. There was no gear under the headwall and you have to make a move to the right to get to a corner where you can get in some gear. While the rest is steep, you can get good gear in some horizontals and the copout isn’t too bad - especially if you’re willing to grab a couple of bushes on the right! [wry grin] Looking at the book later I noted that it’s rated 5.9+ R. I’m not so sure about the +, but I do agree with the R.

We walked out on the ATV trail, all the way past the shooting range/pit. The whole time we had been climbing there were lots and lots of people shooting. I’m not much of a gun person, so this kind of makes me uncomfortable. It’s certainly something that makes the climbing there “different” from any other place I know. If the weather continues to stay warm, as is predicted, I will likely go back this coming weekend. I will happily take whatever outside activities I can find this time of year.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

2015/2016 NECLIMBS FUNDRAISER: This year’s push for donations is officially over. Thanks to the 51 subscribers made donations. It is highly appreciated! FWIW that’s out of over 1,200 subscribers to the weekly White Mountain Report, 1,548 LIKES on FaceBook and a web site that gets over 1,200 unique visits a day. If you haven’t made a donation, please at least consider it. Think about it this way… If you spend any amount of time up here in the Whites in the winter, by reading the Weekly Report a token $20 donation will save you far more than that over the course of the season.

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92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860

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span class="reportSectionHeader">VALLEY CYCLING:
The riding is still quite nice here in the Valley. There are a few muddy patches here & there, but all in all things are holding up very well. I rode Sidehill, the Knot, Rattlesnake and Sticks & Stones last weekend and earlier this week and all are fine. If just have an hour and you’re looking for a real pump, check out the Mt Cranmore access road. It will take you almost to the top of the mountain with some really sustained climbing - 50 minutes up, 10 minutes down! You access it by riding behind the Fitness center and looking for an obvious dirt road on the left. Try not to leave your lungs on the side of the road!


Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Every time I go out and do something, Hans panics and starts trying to beat me. He's like a dog humping your leg.
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