NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:29a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 7.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 7.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.167 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 59 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain GuidesBagels PlusNorthEast MountaineeringInternational Mountain EquipmentInternational Mountain Climbing School
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

December 10, 2015

Hi Folks,

OK, OK, OK, OKÖ I get it. Nobody is happy with the state of the climate right now. At least nobody who is into winter sports, like pretty much everyone I know who lives up here - and all you folks anxiously perusing this Report. And to be honest with you, tho Iím taking advantage of the state of our weather pattern as best I can, Iím not all that happy about it either. Just like you, I have my XC-skis, crampons, ice axes, screws and cold weather outerwear all ready to go. Shoot - Iíve even swapped out the lawn tractor and snowblower, to no avail. And that usually will do the trick! [sigh]

Well, as I have mentioned a number of times, all I can do is to take advantage of whatís given to me. And for now, thatís basically rock climbing and mountain biking. Last Saturday was so balmy that I went down to LongStack to climb with George Hurley. While the ground seemed crusty and a bit frozen in places in the shade, in the sun it was amazing. The crag is totally south facing so the sun was amazingly warm.


George had his eye on a line in the middle of the Indigenous Wall. Heíd been working it on top rope and wanted to try and lead it. While he did manage the lead, he didnít get it clean. I gave it a shot on TR and thought it was really hard, probably in the 10c range, certainly above my pay-grade! Unfortunately, after talking about it with some locals, it turned out that the middle of the route crossed an existing line, so that oneís off the table. Pretty cool that heís still making it happen at 80 tho.


When I was rapping off I noticed a line just to the left that looked appealing. There was one other party at the cliff and I asked what they thought. They said it was called The Stroke, rated at 5.9, so I decided to give it a shot. The start that goes up to a nice ledge was easy enough. The next bit required a 12í piece of fairly steep friction, with no gear. [hmmm] I decided to sling a small tree just in the hope that if I slipped off I ďmightĒ not go to the ground. It took me a few minutes to find the exact combination of nubbins and crimpers, and once I got it I happily clipped the bolt. The next moves to a horizontal about 12 feet higher were almost as hard, but if I fell off at least I wouldnít go to the ground. Some more thin climbing continued up to the headwall. There was no gear under the headwall and you have to make a move to the right to get to a corner where you can get in some gear. While the rest is steep, you can get good gear in some horizontals and the copout isnít too bad - especially if youíre willing to grab a couple of bushes on the right! [wry grin] Looking at the book later I noted that itís rated 5.9+ R. Iím not so sure about the +, but I do agree with the R.

We walked out on the ATV trail, all the way past the shooting range/pit. The whole time we had been climbing there were lots and lots of people shooting. Iím not much of a gun person, so this kind of makes me uncomfortable. Itís certainly something that makes the climbing there ďdifferentĒ from any other place I know. If the weather continues to stay warm, as is predicted, I will likely go back this coming weekend. I will happily take whatever outside activities I can find this time of year.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

2015/2016 NECLIMBS FUNDRAISER: This yearís push for donations is officially over. Thanks to the 51 subscribers made donations. It is highly appreciated! FWIW thatís out of over 1,200 subscribers to the weekly White Mountain Report, 1,548 LIKES on FaceBook and a web site that gets over 1,200 unique visits a day. If you havenít made a donation, please at least consider it. Think about it this wayÖ If you spend any amount of time up here in the Whites in the winter, by reading the Weekly Report a token $20 donation will save you far more than that over the course of the season.

You can still make your donation of any amount ON LINE. It's painless and you can use pretty much any credit card. Simply click the link below to make your contribution.

As always you can also contribute via check or money order for $20. Just make it out to NEClimbs and send it here:

92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860

The White Mountain Report newsletter has been put out consistently since 1998. I have archived almost all of the Reports from as far back as September of 1999 and you can read them online at any time! The current traffic on is well over 1,000 unique visits a day, has over 1.4 million monthly "hitsĒ. This funky little newsletter goes weekly out to over 1,200 subscribers every Thursday. PLEASE REMEMBER, tho itís certainly a labor of love, it's your contribution that makes this newsletter and the NEClimbs web site possible.

THANK YOU for your continued support...

span class="reportSectionHeader">VALLEY CYCLING:
The riding is still quite nice here in the Valley. There are a few muddy patches here & there, but all in all things are holding up very well. I rode Sidehill, the Knot, Rattlesnake and Sticks & Stones last weekend and earlier this week and all are fine. If just have an hour and youíre looking for a real pump, check out the Mt Cranmore access road. It will take you almost to the top of the mountain with some really sustained climbing - 50 minutes up, 10 minutes down! You access it by riding behind the Fitness center and looking for an obvious dirt road on the left. Try not to leave your lungs on the side of the road!


Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

You put up with the grind of work or school as long as you can or is required. But then, one day, the phone rings one too many times, or the line at the gas pumps seems unending. The air smells bad. The food foul. 'Enough of this' you cry. You grab your ice tools and are gone.
Duane Raleigh
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List