NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 4:30p on 01/21/19 - Temperature: -3.7 °F - Wind speed: 8.0 mph - Wind chill: -13.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.746 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 37 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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February 18, 2016

Hi Folks,

As you most surely know by now, we had another “weather event” over the past couple of days. We had 4-6 inches of snow, freezing rain, sleet, rain, up to 54 degree temps. It was brutal! And then - and then - we had a 20 degree night that turned that entire frickin’ mess into a solid mass that we lovingly call ice. Even after having a snowplow guy scrape my driveway down to the asphalt, my driveway (and all the other local roads) turned into a virtual skating rink. If it sounds like I’m getting a bit tired of this crap, well you’d be correct.

This is another short Report, because I’m tired and I know you guys want to read this. So here’s the short version of my morning taking pictures and climbing at Frankenstein. When I left the house at 8:30 it was bluebird and 26 degrees. When I paused at the Mt Washington viewing area near Arethusa Falls it was 21. At the top of Crawford Notch it was 20. When I got to the parking area at Frankenstein it was sunny, breezy and 14! When we got done climbing the far right side of Standard and back to the car it was still 14. As I paused at Sawyer River Road to take a pee, it was 24. And when I got back to the Frontside for a bit of coffee at 2, it was 31! The climbing was good. The ice was solid, tho dribbley and mushroom in places. There weren’t a lot of people there but everyone we saw that climbed Standard, except us, started from the far left side, under Standard Left. There were a lot of hikers going up to Arethusa.

There you have it. Here’s a picture of my friend Bobby just before starting up the ramp. He placed more screws than he usually does because the ice was hard.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

AngelCakes.jpg
Diagonal.jpg
Dropline_Machine.jpg
ElephantHead_right.jpg
goofers.jpg
LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
MtWashington.jpg
pegasus.jpg
Repentance_Remission.jpg
Shoestring.jpg
standardRoute.jpg
Unicorn.jpg

VALLEY CYCLING:
Up until the rain & warmup we had what was probably some of the best winter riding I’ve experienced. Unfortunately right now things are OK, but not quite as good due to the crust and places where hikers have post-holed on the trails. However crews of us from the local NEMBA chapter have been out snowshoeing and packing them back down. Hopefully that will get them back into rideable shape n the next couple of days. Here are a few pictures from just before the weather event.

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Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


009 had a crux dyno on it that will, by its very nature, eliminate 98% of the old ice climbers.
Stevie Haston
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