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It appears that summer is finally here folks. 80+ degrees, the occasional thunderstorm, mosquitoes and black flies, ticks… The only thing we’re missing so far are the crowds, and I’m sure that they will be along very soon.
I was going to go climbing on Wednesday, but a prior appointment took precedence and I had to reschedule to Thursday. We originally were planning on climbing at Echo Roof. However, when we got to the Whitehorse parking area it was almost filled up, plus there was a bus from Fryeburg Academy there. We figured that there would already be a crew at Echo Roof, so we headed to Cathedral. Interestingly there were only a few cars parked near the kiosk, so we decided to try something on the Thin Air face. Brad suggested that we do then traverse on Thin Air to near the right side, build an anchor and drop a TR on Adventures In 3D.
There was absolutely nobody on the Thin Air face and fortunately no bugs were to be seen, other than a few in the woods at the base of the cliff. This must have been due to the delightful breeze that we were favored with all afternoon. I led up the face and across the traverse to the pin and built the belay and Brad followed quickly. I always seem to climb the normal start to Thin Air that takes you up the face to the pillar, to the bongs and then step out to the traverse. Brad suggested that I go up to the right of the pillar, to a smaller buttress about 20’ to its right and then continue up to the traverse. It seemed a little runout, but I found a solid nut placement in a V-groove about 25’ up and then there were small horizontals where you would need them ‘till you get to the traverse crack. As always on this face there are a million variations, but I’m going to remember this one. It’s a great alternative if there are folks topping off the bongs, as there often are in the summer.
We were using a 70 meter rope, which would “just” reach the ground from our anchor, which used the pin and 2 cams. We tied off the middle of the rope to the anchor and I rapped on one strand while Brad belayed me on the other. That way I was ready to climb as soon as I got to the ground. It’s a good system. And if you have clients or beginners, they are protected as they rap. It’s a pretty common guide trick, called “belayed rappel”. We all use it a lot.
The climbing on Adventures In 3D is very nice 5.8 face, but it’s basically unprotected. I vaguely remember following Uwe on it many years ago. It’s certainly R, maybe even X-ish, as there is almost no protection available in 30+ meters of climbing. Regardless, it’s great fun on TR and highly recommended if there isn’t anybody around. However, if it’s a busy day I wouldn’t recommend tying us the traverse with a TR. You certainly won’t make any friends. [wry grin] Of course you can always go one over and drop down to the Windfall belay and climb those couple of routes. They are great fun as well.
One important note about these climbs: From this improvised belay all the way to the normal Thin Air traverse belay, you will need either a 70 meter rope or 2 ropes to get to the ground! From the TA belay you have to tension a pretty good ways left, uphill, to get to the ground - even with a 70 - and putting knots in the rope ends is probably a good idea! Just a heads up…
SHAMELESS SELF PROMOTION:
If you live in the Portsmouth/Newmarket area, or over in Lincoln, consider coming out to see one of the following music events. I will be at The Stone Church in Newmarket Friday night starting at 9pm with my normal band Bruce Marshall & the Nor’Easters. This is a fantastic band that plays a mix of southern rock and originals. We will be joined tonight by keyboard whiz Brian Maes from the Peter Wolf band. On Saturday I will be at Jean’s Playhouse in Lincoln for a concert with legendary blues harmonica stylist James Montgomery. If you like the blues, it doesn’t get a whole lot better. Show starts at 8.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 27, 2025
There is minimal snow up in Crawford Notch. The pictures below are from Wednesday. While I drove through the notch today, I didn't bring a camera. However there is substantially less ice up there than there was yesterday. Mid day Wednesday it was 46 degrees at the Dry River Campground and 41 at the Highland Center. It rained a bit overnight as well. Today it was 40 at the Center! I have seen some great pictures of Pinnacle Gully from earlier in the week, but none from yesterday or today. That said, things will most certainly get better as the weekend goes on.
Huntington Ravine
UNKNOWN
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
THOM POLLARD SUMMITS EVEREST:
Well known local climber and videographer Thom Pollard summited Everest Tuesday night and safely returned to base camp. Thom did the video for Rick Wilcox's movie Thin Air and was on the expedition that found Mallory's body several years ago. Kudos to him!
MISSING HIKER FOUND AFTER 2 YEARS:
The mystery of what happened to AT through hiker Geraldine Largay has been resolved.
INSTANT BUG REPORT: Bug CON 4
Yet another jump from last week. The bugs in many places are BRUTAL, especially the mosquitoes. Unless it’s very breezy I would urge you to use bug dope as a matter of course. In addition the ticks are also quite prolific, so be sure to check yourself and your partner.
VALLEY CYCLING:
Great trails everywhere right now. If you haven’t been there already, be sure to check out the Marshall Conservation land off West Side Road. Although relatively new, it’s already one of the best that the Valley has to offer.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
