NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:00p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 8.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.255 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 52 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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June 17, 2016

Hi Folks,

WOW WOW WOWÖ I know that youíre been anxiously waiting for this, and yes - it actually feels like SUMMER for a change. Thatís right folks, after a totally up and down spring, itís warm and dry for a change and Iím loving it. The leaves and greenery are all in full swing now and the cliffs are dry. Am I psyched, do I sound psyched, well you better believe I am.

WHY DO I STILL CLIMB:
Interestingly enough Iíve had 2 people ask me that question lately. One was my 16 year old son, and the other someone I play music with all the time. Both know all the things that I do in my life: play bass, ride the mountain bike, do recording, work on software and or course climb rock & ice. They can understand that at 68 I do some of these, but the climbing is something they canít seem to wrap their heads around. Tho there is some element of danger in riding the mountain bike, which I do a ton, I would guess that blasting down the Red Tail Trail from the Black Cap is likely not as dangerous as the first 35í of AP Treat (5.9) on Cathedral or even some of the run-out sections of Beginners on Whitehorse. Of course I suppose going 50 down from the top of Crawford Notch on the road bike is right up there. That said, as exhilarating as it can be, I donít ride on the road very much any more. There are just too many fools out there behind the wheel of ton-and-a-half vehicles, often texting at the same time!

After close to 40 years of climbing, I suppose there is still somewhat of a high I get from climbing something thatís hard. More usually when itís something either I havenít done before, or something I havenít done in a long time. I can remember giving out a couple of WOO WOOís at the Gunks the last time I was there with George when I pulled over the top on a hard (for me) pitch. George never shows that kind of exuberance, but sometimes I can even see it in his eyes. But then I get a similar when I manage to ride from the 4 Corners to the Tent Boulder without putting my foot down! Again, itís not the same danger quotient, but it sure is the same sense of accomplishment. And when I managed it the other day I gave out a big WHOOP of joy that echoed off the Moat cliffs just above!

I spent a few hours climbing with Brad on Wednesday, wedging it in between a bike ride in the morning and a recording mix session in the evening. We went over to Cathedral and I led AP Treat. As I mentioned before, that first 35í before you get the tiny red cam in the seam is not something you really want to fall off of. And the 10í or so after that, before you get to the pin, has itís own bit of interest. But when you have a good belayer and friend at the other end of the rope, you get that confidence thing thatís transmitted up the string and you just feel good.

So after spending a day cogitating on this question about climbing, I come back to the same things. On a climb like AP Treat that Iíve done many times, it always brings something to the table for me. Again, that sense of accomplishment, of completion, of success on something that has a bit more of an edge to it than the other things in my life. There is this connection to the good friends I climb with, to being in the great outdoors, and of course the focus and intensity brought on by that element of danger - even if itís only a little. They all come together to give me something I donít get in my life otherwise and itís hard to imagine a life without climbing.

Why do you climb? Itís worth a few minutes thinking aboutÖ

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20160617/AP_Treat.jpg

FRIENDS OF THE LEDGES
There is a great event happening here in North Conway, NH this weekend with our buddies at Friends of the Ledges! THIS Friday, June 17th, 6pm at Tuckerman Brewing Company in Conway, NH for the FOTL's Flashback Friday Fundraiser - Uncommon Ground Movie Night & Raffle! Help spread the word and it's going to be a great night filled with community, great beer, yummy food, AWESOME raffle, the usual debauchery and a showing on the big screen of local classic and favorite movie- Uncommon Ground! Spread the word, bring friends, and climb at Cathedral & Whitehorse the rest of the weekend!

https://www.facebook.com/nhledges/
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

2016 PEREGRINE CLOSINGS:
I received the following from Chris Martin - NH Audubon biologist.

Temporary access restrictions are posted at the following five New Hampshire cliff sites in 2016:

Eaglet Spire (and adjacent walls), Franconia, NH
Holts Ledge, Lyme, NH
Painted Walls, Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Summit Cliff and nearby), Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right/north end only), Albany, NH

Peregrines are present at a number of additional cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use is minimal. Climbers are advised to alter plans, and report the incident, if you encounter aggressive falcons during a climb.

All areas will be open effective August 1.

NOTE: There are birds on Whitehorse in the center forested section above Echo Roof, but there are currently no restrictions on Cathedral or Whitehorse this year.

INSTANT BUG REPORT: Bug CON 4
YUP! Still at a pretty annoying 4 for the time being.

VALLEY CYCLING:
The trails are all in great shape. The new trails on the Marshall Conservation are expanding as I write. I know I sound like a broken record, but if you havenít been there GO NOW!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Life is brought down to the basics: if you are warm, regular, healthy, not thirsty or hungry, then you are not on a mountain... Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall ó it's great when you stop.
Chris Darwin
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