NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:59a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 6.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 6.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.178 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 58 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
International Mountain Climbing SchoolInternational Mountain EquipmentBagels PlusNorthEast MountaineeringMooney Mountain Guides
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

July 14, 2016

Hi Folks,

Itís been a brutally hot week up here in the Valley, with the only saving grace being the somewhat cool nights. Iím not sure we are in an official ďheat waveĒ, but it sure feels that way to me. Iíve been out on the bike a couple of daze in the afternoon and it was almost too hot to deal with. I grew up in Florida and Georgia and I think Iím acclimated to the heat, at least until we get a string of days like this. [wry grin]

Sorry I didnít get a report out last week, but between work, climbing and 3 band gigs over the weekend things just piled up all over me. On the good side, Iím busy and I shouldnít complain - right? Honestly I like being busy, so itís all good IMO. I got out climbing on Mt Forist in Berlin with the Perezís and Brad White last week. I really do like it up there as it has lots of moderate grade climbs and the rock is really quite nice. BITD the rock was known for having a black slimy coating from the paper mill smoke, but thatís pretty much all gone. I really enjoy climbing there & itís worth the drive. My friend Matt Bowman has put together a nice little pamphlet guide to the area that you can pick up at his restaurant in Gorham, the White Mountain Cafe & bookstore. I always stop in for coffee and a chocolate chip cookie before climbing anyway. [grin]

Joe Perez on Mt Forist.jpg

I heard a rumor a couple of weeks ago that some trees had been cut down on the Barber Wall Ledge, right below Nutcracker, but I was skeptical. I kept thinking I was going to get over and do Upper refuse and check it out, but that never happened, so I decided to walk over there today. needless to say I was a bit disappointed that in fact it was true. These werenít old trees and certainly arenít going to open up the area in any real way, so Iím not sure what the reason was for it. Sure Nutcracker is often damp, but that is seepage in the crack from the ledge above and I donít think you can do anything about it. The other downside is that it will likely contribute to the general erosion thatís taking place up there. All in all, not a good thingÖ


CANNON CLIFF, SOME OBSERVATIONS: Iíve climbed at Cannon off & on for 25 years. Iíve always been careful, and even a bit afraid when Iíve been there. Not the least because you have to walk up through the talus field to get to the climbing. Erik Thatcher has written a great article/blog posting about the cliff called Itís Alive. HIGHLY RECOMMENDEDÖ
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

I received the following from Chris Martin - NH Audubon biologist.

Temporary access restrictions are posted at the following five New Hampshire cliff sites in 2016:

Eaglet Spire (and adjacent walls), Franconia, NH
Holts Ledge, Lyme, NH
Painted Walls, Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Summit Cliff and nearby), Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right/north end only), Albany, NH

Peregrines are present at a number of additional cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use is minimal. Climbers are advised to alter plans, and report the incident, if you encounter aggressive falcons during a climb.

All areas will be open effective August 1.

NOTE: There are birds on Whitehorse in the center forested section above Echo Roof, but there are currently no restrictions on Cathedral or Whitehorse this year.

Not that itís great, but Iíve lowered the rating to a 3 at last. The black flies are mostly gone, tho the mosquitoes can be pretty bad. But then thatís northern New England, so what can you expect right?

Those of us who like out-back riding enjoy what is called the Twilight Zone and Outer Limits trails on the East side. These arenít in the current trail map, but if you ask at the local bike shops you will get directed appropriately. FWIW there is logging going on up near the top of the hillside near Redneck Rocks and a part of the upper trail has been obliterated. Iím sure it will be cleared before long, but itís worth being aware.

Iíve been riding the Marshall land at lunch time just to get out and I can get in a good pump in just over 1 hour. There are many new signs, plus the older esoteric signs, and some other funny stuff like this:

Intersection on the Marshall trails

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Climbing for speed records will probably become more popular, a mania which has just begun. Climbers climb not just to see how fast and efficiently they can do it, but far worse, to see how much faster and more efficiently they are than a party which did the same climb a few days before. The climb becomes secondary, no more important than a racetrack. Man is pitted against man.
Yvon Chouinard
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List