NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:00p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 8.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.255 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 52 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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November 30, 2017

Hi Folks,

While I'm usually pretty laid back about early season ice, even I'm getting kind of antsy to get out and swing my tools! I'm not all that excited about hiking into the ravines or the Dike, so that means possibly scratching up something, rock climbing or riding my bike these daze. Fortunately I was actually able to combine 2 of the three today.

I got out fairly early to take pictures today, leaving the house at around 7:15. The light on Cathedral was quite nice, so that was a plus. After a stop for coffee and a bagel at Bagels Plus, I headed up to Frankenstein. It was one of those chilly bluebird days that really felt warmer that it was. The car thermometer registered 25 in the Notch as I was taking pics of Frankenstein from the road. The only thing that looked even possible was Standard so I drove up the Arethusa driveway and parked at the top near Bill's house. As I was getting out my stuff he came out to do some wood cutting and we had a short talk. He mentioned that last winter some folks had ridden their fat tire bikes down from the top of the Notch and that gave me an idea. I happened to have my fat bike in the back of the van so I pulled it out. You may remember that a couple of weeks ago I had cleared limbs and sticks off the tracks so I figured it would all be OK.

I started out riding down the side of the tracks in the gravel, but that wasn't all that nice, so I tried in-between the rails and it was great. Of course having a front suspension and a suspension seat post helped a lot. It took me less than 10 minutes to get over the trestle and to Standard Route. That was very cool. I did a little video of me riding on the trestle which you can see on Facebook. Standard didn't look very good to me do I rode on down a bit further.

Just past Dracula I saw a guy walking the tracks in a red vest and hat and when I got to him it turns out he was a hunter! He was carrying what looked like an AR15 and was looking, he said, for deer! Go figure. If he saw something I hope it wasn't on the road side of the tracks!!! He said he had walked down the tracks from the AMC, but I find that hard to believe. That's almost 5 miles, but who knows?

I got to that little slab past the Hanging Garden at the far right end of the ice area and it actually was OK. I'm sure you couldn't get in screws and I never took a full swing, but it was fun to just climb ice! I went up about 2/3 of the way, traversed left and wandered down through the woods. Thoroughly enjoyable, tho hardly challenging.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/FarRightSlab_0.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/FarRightSlab_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/FarRightSlab_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/FarRightSlab_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/Al.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here's a few conditions pix from today. The rest are on FaceBook and NEClimbs.com.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/TheProw.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/StandardCave.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/StandardUpper.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/MtWashington.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/SnotRocket.jpg

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MOUNT WASHINGTON VALLEY ICE FEST 2018:
In case you had forgotten, the 25 annual Ice Fest is coming up. Mark February 2-4 on your calendars and stay tuned. It's going to be a good one!

http://www.mwv-icefest.com

VALLEY CYCLING:
Lots to ride out there. I got in 2 very different rides today. The first was down the RR tracks at Frankenstein all the way past Hanging Garden to the little practice slab. The second was at the Albany Town Forest off the Kanc. Both were great. Here's a couple of pix from #1.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/Bike_trestle.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20171130/Bike_StandardRoute.jpg

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


My mother used to rock me and she used big rocks.
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