NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 8.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.265 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 41 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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S U B S C R I B E
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October 4, 2018

Hi Folks,

Two days of rain came through this week, yielding almost 1.5 inches of liquid. YUCK... Yes, it made a mess of some cliff area for climbing for a day or two and made my gig at the Fryeburg Fair on Tuesday night, less than enjoyable. That said, the weekend looks great, foliage is ripening fast and I'm sure that things will dry out quickly.

I've written several times about climbing at the newish little cliff out near Fryeburg. Brad and I have talked about the possibility of adding an additional route to the ones already there and last Sunday we got out and did one. This climb starts up on the right side of the cliff just behind a tree. It climbs past 4 bolts, over a small hump/overlap to a 2 bolt anchor. The rock was covered with lichen and moss and took us a couple of hours of effort to get it cleaned off. When we led it the rock was still dusty and a bit dirty, but the 2 days of rain we just had should have cleaned it off.

Brad had the honors for the FA and I did the second. While we were there a couple came up with their young son. I believe that the woman is Heather and I can't remember her husband's name. She grabbed the 3rd ascent of the route, which is still unnamed. Brad and I thought it was abut 5.5 and she agreed.

If you haven't been out there, check it out. It's a nice alternative to everything else and it's all bolted & moderate. A few pix below. Check out the huge wasp nest we spotted in a tree near the trail. It's bigger than my head, and that's big folks. Nope, it's na-da piņata! LOL

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181004/NewRoute_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181004/NewRoute_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181004/NewRoute_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181004/NewRoute_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181004/NewRoute_5.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181004/NewRoute_6.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181004/NewRoute_7.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181004/WaspNest.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

YANKEE ROCK AND ICE RELEASE PARTY:
If you're a climber in New England and you don't know about this book, you certainly should. YR&I is a classic history of Rock and Ice climbing in New England from 1916-1989, with an emphasis on the Gunks and North Conway. The original book was written by Guy and Laura Waterman and first published in 1993 and is considered a classic in its genera. It was reissued in paperback in 2002 and has now been updated by local climber Michael Wejchert and rereleased.

There will be a book release party for the new edition this Saturday, October 6th, at IME at 7PM.

ICE FEST 2019:
This years Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest is February 1-3. Put it on your schedule now. You don't want to miss it.

VALLEY CYCLING:
The Bike For Books ride last weekend was wonderful as usual. It was about as nice a day as you could ask for to do a 20 mile ride. Tho we had 2 daze of rain this week, I rode at Marshall yesterday evening and everything was great. With the foliage coming in it's a great time to be in the woods.

INSTANT BUG REPORT - BUGCon 1:
NONE but the occasional mosquito...oh, and tick!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.
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