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I once again have to put the weather on the top of the list for what's happening this week. We've had an amazingly balmy winter so far, but this weekend that's going to drastically change, at least for a few daze. I can't really explain it any better than what the Obs folks have to say, so either jump to their site or scroll down here for the Valley predictions.
I haven't been climbing all that much, just a bit on my own, but I did get out on Tuesday. My long time friend Tom Callaghan wanted to show off a couple of "new" routes he has done over at Cathedral. I put the word new in quotes mainly 'cause everybody thinks it's all been done. And for the most part it has. But there are some things that come in based on interesting weather and in odd places. These 2 fit that bill. The first one we did is on The Nostril Block, a giant boulder that's in the woods pretty much directly below The Mordor. A general description is on page 264 of the latest Handren guide. The route we did is called "The Shnoz" and while he calls it Grade 4/M7, I think it's every bit of that. The gear is "adequate" tho there is a great place for a purple Camelot in the corner near the top. Unfortunately the top out is on unconsolidated snow over rock, which makes it much more dicey than it should be.
The second climb is really a smear of ice located right of the start to Fun House and pretty much directly below the block. It's 2 short pitches. I led the first pitch which was pretty thin and delaminated. Fortunately there is a pin about 10' up on the left and another on the right 12' up. I couldn't find #2 but got in a decent stubbie in an icicle on the right. You belay at a large tree, but again there is mostly snow over rock getting there. We didn't do P 2 because it was even more delaminated and the crack was full of ice! Oh well...another time. What I did was pretty fun.
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 27, 2025
There is minimal snow up in Crawford Notch. The pictures below are from Wednesday. While I drove through the notch today, I didn't bring a camera. However there is substantially less ice up there than there was yesterday. Mid day Wednesday it was 46 degrees at the Dry River Campground and 41 at the Highland Center. It rained a bit overnight as well. Today it was 40 at the Center! I have seen some great pictures of Pinnacle Gully from earlier in the week, but none from yesterday or today. That said, things will most certainly get better as the weekend goes on.
Huntington Ravine
UNKNOWN
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
OUR ONLY WAY OUT IS IF YOU GET VACCINATED, WHERE RECOMMENDED PLEASE STILL WEAR A MASK, WASH YOUR HANDS!
VALLEY CYCLING:
No time to ride this week so nothing to report... Sorry
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
Real Programmers don't play tennis, or any sport that requires you to change clothes. Mountain climbing is OK, and real programmers always wear their climbing boots to work in case a mountain should suddenly spring up in the middle of a machine room.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
