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December 7, 2023
Hi Folks,
Well it has definitely been cold, and that's quickly making a real difference and ice is building pretty well at this point. As long as we don't get hit with another warm-up and rain, we should have some good conditions out there very soon. I was somewhat surprised this morning that there are no signs that people have been breaking trail anywhere. Go figure...
Sure folks are getting on stuff, but it's hard to call what I've been seeing as IN. Cathedral Mountain Guides posted a picture of Byard leading a VERY thin Unicorn from several years ago. Having climbed Unicorn regularly since the late 90's, I would not say that is NOT IN! Of course I suppose I could go on and on about the definition of IN and OUT. It's been a hotly debated topic ever since folks started winter climbing and I suppose some could argue that it's "in the eye of the beholder". HA - or perhaps more logically "a given person's risk tolerance". As I've gotten older, that personal level has surely dropped. However, I make my weekly assessments based on how close a given climb's current condition appears to conform to the normal consensus grade. Thus let's look at a climb, like say Dropline. When I am looking at it with my binoculars and there is no ice on the lower [easier] section, an open section for ~4' at the cave, the ice above it looks fluted and dribbly and there is the big rock section visible on the left at the top out! I would have to call that OUT. But I say that and then of course it gets done that day or the next by one of "the young guns"... It still doesn't change the concept that it's not IN at the Grade 5 that it's rated. That is kind of why the overall early season rating might only be at a 1, even tho a bunch of stuff is getting climbed.
A great example of this is Parasol Gully, generally considered a very moderate Grade 2+. I've climbed it a lot, last season 3 times. the first 2 times with Matt Bowman. Both times were in conditions that IMNSHO were sketchy at the very best. It was running water, the ice was not well bonded, it required rock gear and as I remember at least 1 pin! Plus it's namesake parasol wasn't there. At that time I felt it was not at all IN for most folks. But I went back near the end of the season and soloed it in great conditions and needless to say that was IN. I just try to give you all my best guesstimate as to the state of the ice at a given time. And as is so often said, YMMV, your mileage may vary. [wry grin]
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter. We will continue to provide updates when possible.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Friends of the Ledges is excited to announce that Janet Wilkinson will be presenting at Ledge Brewing Company on December 14th, from 6-8 p.m. Janet Wilkinson is a long time local and accomplished all around climber. She's digging through a couple decades of mountain adventure stories to find some fun and funny ones to share with us. Expect shenanigans ranging from our local hills to places like Cuba, Newfoundland, Patagonia, Nepal and India, with a mix of first ascents, failed ascents, unplanned bivies and big wall climbing. Janet is a mom of two young wildlings, works as an organizational development consultant, and advocates for inclusion and belonging in the outdoor community.
This is a fundraiser and we will be accepting donations in the form of entrance ticket.
Donation List
Still waiting for some groomed/packed trails to ride on. With the snow we got on Monday that should happen soon. [fingers crossed] Not on Sawyer River Road yet tho!
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
| There are very, very few ice climbs in the world that are actually hard, but these mixed climbs, on the other hand, they were very hard. You could pitch on them... |
| Will Gadd |
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