NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / African Queen (5.9 R)
Directions:  Hike up the normal trail to the cliff and go left about 100'. The climb starts on a clean gray slab just left of the Jagen Die Sieben buttress.
Description: A nice variation to the start of Straight Up. If you do the original start, traversing the shallow ramp from right to left, it's most assuredly an R. If you start at a knob just right of the start of Straight Up, it's not too bad. You can toprope it from the Can YOU Believe It anchor.
    Pitch 1: Follow a shallow ramp left to an overlap, move up to another overlap at the top of the headwall, step right and pad up the slab to the Can YOU Believe It? anchor, just left of the Straight Up corner. An easier and more protectable start involves starting just right of Straight Up at a little knob, putting gear in the small overlap and and then moving right.

Gear: standard rack with small gear
Descent: Rap from the Can YOU Believe It? anchor or finish Straight Up.
History:  September 28,1981 - Doug Madara and Kurt Winkler It's interesting that this was climbed a year and a day after the FA of Straight Up!

 

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