NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:29p on 06/18/19 - Temperature: 73.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 73.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.793 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 39 %
BugCON 5: climbers AND belayers require mosquito net & DEET for survival
5 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Crag Y / Sword Of Omens (5.11d)
Directions:  To the right of the large MODERN MATURITY/TRAPEZIUS corner system, a steep arete cuts through the overhangs. Begin in an open corner just below this arete, and right of the MODERN MATURITY start.
Description: 
    Pitch 1: Climb the open corner to a ledge fifteen feet up. Then step right into a thin dihedral (fixed pin) at the base of the arete. Tricky climbing leads up this corner to a good stance. Just above this is a second stance, at a notch in the blade-sharp arete. A difficult sequence of moves continues up the overhanging arete, passing two more fixed pins. There is a thin hold on the left that requires gentle treatment, and solid hand jams at the very top. Belay at a wobbly pine tree 60', 5.11d

    Pitch 2: Grunge climbing leads to the top. 60', 5.6

Gear: Standard Rack
Descent: rap the route
History:  July 26,1987 - Jim Ewing and Larry Hamilton

 

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