NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:29p on 05/26/18 - Temperature: 75.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 75.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.757 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
BugCON 3: blackflys in blood feast and/or bad mosquitoes
3 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Whitehorse Ledge / The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
Directions:  Start on the far right side of the slabs, up the hill a little bit. Look for an old pine tree with slings on it about a rope length up.
Description: This route follows a line between Beginner's Route and Beginner's Easy and is a straight shot up to the head wall area before it veers to the right. The protection is generally good. Carry a standard Whitehorse rack to a #2 Camalot. Pitches 1-4 have fixed rappel stations and are set for 60 M ropes.
    Pitch 1: Climb the slab the pine tree. (5.2)

    Pitch 2: "The Wheat Thin Arete" 5.6, 190'. Step right of the tree 10' and head up toward a bolt. Climb past a horizontal to join a thin flake. Follow the flake to an arete on the right, passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

    Pitch 3: "The Cajun Washboard" 5.6, 170'. Straight up off the belay through some bulgy areas passing one bolt to a steeper wall. Move up and right passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

    Pitch 4: "The Open Book" 5.6, 200'. Climb a bulge off the belay into an open book. Pass one bolt before reaching the top of the book. Protect and climb rightward through a green lichen covered area. Climb a short flake and hand crack up to a tree with a blue tat anchor.

    Pitch 5: "The Northwest Passage" 5.5, 60'. Step up and left off the belay into a giant, steep flake. Trend up and slightly right above the flake passing a small tree to a larger tree below a bulge with a horizontal.

    Pitch 6: "The Low Beer Light Pitch" 5.4, 180'. Use the horizontal to clear to clear the bulge. Trend slightly rightward avoiding a dirty water groove to the left. Step back left to a tree belay.

    Pitch 7: "The Platinum Slab" 5.5, 190'. Follow a bulgy groove to an old 1/4" bolt bolt and a new 3/8 bolt. Trend up and left passing a faint dike aiming for a white slab and another bolt. Belay at pine tree.

    Pitch 8: "The Top Out Pitch" 5.3, 60'. Climb easy rock straight up to the top.

Gear: standard rack and a 60 meter rope to go to the top, otherwise doubles
Descent: Walk off right to the Bryce Path
History:  August 31,2012 - Paul Cormier and Chris Magness. Ground-up, swapping leads.

 

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