NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 4:28a on 08/02/14 - Temperature: 78.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 78.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.639 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 100 %
BugCON 2: some mosquitoes, possible blackflys swarming with minimal biting
2 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Whitehorse Ledge / The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
Directions:  Start on the far right side of the slabs, up the hill a little bit. Look for an old pine tree with slings on it abut a rope length up.
Description: This route follows a line between Beginner’s Route and Beginner’s Easy and is a straight shot up to the head wall area before it veers to the right.  The protection is generally good.  Carry a standard Whitehorse rack to a #2 Camalot.  Pitches 1-4 have fixed rappel stations and are set for 60 M ropes. 
    Pitch 1: Climb the slab the pine tree. (5.2)

    Pitch 2: “The Wheat Thin Arete” 5.6, 190’.   Step right of the tree 10’ and head up toward a bolt.  Climb past a horizontal to join a thin flake.  Follow the flake to an arête on the right, passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

    Pitch 3: “The Cajun Washboard”  5.6, 170’.  Straight up off the belay through some bulgy areas passing one bolt to a steeper wall.  Move up and right passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

    Pitch 4: “The Open Book”  5.6,  200’.  Climb a bulge off the belay into an open book.  Pass one bolt before reaching the top of the book.  Protect and climb rightward through a green lichen covered area.   Climb a short flake and hand crack up to a tree with a blue tat anchor

    Pitch 5: “The Northwest Passage”  5.5,  60’.  Step up and left off the belay into a giant, steep flake.  Trend up and slightly right above the flake passing a small tree to a larger tree below a bulge with a horizontal.

    Pitch 6: “The Low Beer Light Pitch”  5.4,  180’.  Use the horizontal to clear to clear the bulge.  Trend slightly rightward avoiding a dirty water groove to the left.  Step back left to a tree belay.

    Pitch 7: “The Platinum Slab”  5.5,  190’.  Follow a bulgy groove to an old ¼ bolt bolt and a new 3/8 bolt.  Trend up and left passing a faint dike aiming for a white slab and another bolt.  Belay at pine tree.

    Pitch 8: "The Top Out Pitch"  5.3,  60'.  Climb easy rock straight up to the top.

Gear: standard rack and a 60 meter rope to go to the top, otherwise doubles
Descent: walk off right to the Bryce Path
History:  August 31,2012 - Paul Cormier and Chris Magness.  Ground-up, swapping leads.

 

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