Climbing Area Index / White Ledge (Albany) / 5.7 Link Up (5.9)
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Start at the toe of rock. |
Pitch 1: Climb Trail of Tears or Go West Young man to bolted anchor. 5.7 120'
Pitch 2: Trail of Tears or 5.7 PG 13 left variation to bolted anchor. 5.7 115'
Pitch 3: Climb straight up the slab above the anchor till a left slanting dike is reached. Climb the leftwards leaning dike past a small group of trees until you reach the short center crack (just before the overhanging corner crack) in the left facing wall of the Manifest Destiny corner. Climb the short crack to the arĂȘte and follow this to the gear anchor at the flat ledge. This gear anchor takes perfect #2 (Yellow) Camalot size pieces and also a #1 (Red) so I would recommend bringing doubles in both cams and saving both of the #2's for the belay. 5.7 120'
Pitch 4: Climb the left facing corner to easy slabs above. 5.4 115'
This could be one of the original climbs on the cliff and makes it possible to climb the entire center height of White Ledge at 5.7.
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A full modern rack is needed...
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Rappel the route with a single 70 meter rope, 2-60 meter ropes, or walk off |
2011 - FRA. Brad White and Matt Peer Summer 2011. |
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