NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Whitehorse Ledge / Loose Lips (5.10)
Loose Lips
Jeff Cavicchi into the flake
Photo by Al Hospers
Directions:  Whitehorse Ledge, between the Slabs and the South Buttress on the left side of the Ethereal Buttress. Park in the climbers lot at the White Mountain Hotel. Hike along the cliff, through the rockfall area, past the Echo Roof, looking for a triangular buttress with 2 cracks - the Ethereal Buttress.
Description: The climb starts on the top of the buttress. Climb Beezlebub corner or one of the cracks in the buttress to get to the top.
    Pitch 1: Lean over off the top of the block and clip the first bolt. Make a step (of faith) onto the face and make thin face moves past 3 bolts to a small ledge. (5.10a) Traverse left and down into a thin crack/flake. Follow the flake up and left to a 2-bolt belay. 5.10a, 90'

Gear: Bring a standard rack with small wires.
Descent: Rappel with 2 ropes to the ground.
History:  August 1979 - Jim Dunn, Martha Morris, Ken Sims and Alain Comeau in August, 1979.

 

NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Mooney Mountain Guides
the American Alpine Club
The Cranmore Mountain Lodge
International Mountain Equipment
International Mountain Climbing School
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
Bagels Plus
Savage Mountain Gear
Friends Of The Ledges
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List