NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 2: some mosquitoes, possible blackflys swarming with minimal biting
2 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Star Trek (5.6)
Directions:  Start on the railroad tracks 200 yards north of Standard Route. Bushwhack uphill to a low-angled slab leading up to a steeper shattered headwall.
Description: A direct route up the right-hand white streak on the right margin of the lower slabs.
    Pitch 1: Along the large white slab look for the path of least resistance. The easiest path is marked by several small features and overlaps. Very mossy and slick even when dry. Protection is sparse and the runout to the ledge wont have you "lichen" this part. 150', 5.5

    Pitch 2: From the far left end of the ledge angle 45 degrees up and left to a chossy arete. Large feet and hand holds make the climbing easy but beware as the rocks are LOOSE. Many holds can be picked right up off the rock, but manage to hold when pulled down. Climb with caution. Small nuts and cams make for marginal protection along with one rusty 1/4" bolt leading to the single birch tree belay above the arete. You may wish to back the little tree up with a large cam in the crack beside it. 100', 5.5

    Pitch 3: Climb straight up the wavy wall to a belay ledge and a bolt anchor just to the left of what used to be a tree clump on Celestial Path but is not just a small shrub and some dirt. One bolt and good placements make this an enjoyable pitch. 2 bolt belay. 80, 5.5

    Pitch 4: Follow a small dike up clean enjoyable white rock past all fixed protection. Although all bolted, it is not a sport pitch. You may be bug-eyed with fear if you miss a bolt, as they blend in well with the white rock. The best pitch on the climb (three stars). 4 bolts and a pin. 2 bolt belay. 180', 5.6

    Pitch 5: Move up the slab to the tree covered ledge. Many options to get to the ledge though basically no protection on the pitch. Careful near the ledge don't grab for the small trees if you're gripped as they are NOT firmly rooted and will pull out sending you sliding down the slab. 150', 5.3

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel the route or climb another to the top
History:  May 16,1982 - Todd Swain, Don MacDougal, Curt Robinson, Scott Metzger


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