NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 10:28a on 08/27/14 - Temperature: 85.7 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 85.7 F - Barometric pressure: 29.351 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 78 %
BugCON 2: some mosquitoes, possible blackflys swarming with minimal biting
2 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Time Traveler (5.8)
Directions:  Begin 7' right of Standard Route on a bushy ledge on the bottom left side of a slab leading up to a prominent overlap. Directly above is a distinctive right-facing corner starting 4 up a steep wall.
Description: This is perhaps the most logical line up the open friction slabs to the right of Standard Route. While the crux Is well protected, there are runouts on moderate slabs.
    Pitch 1: Climb a layback flake up the slab to a right-facing corner. At 50 the corner jogs horizontally right past a 3/8 bolt. Continue to a belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor under the overlap. 130', 5.7

    Pitch 2: Diagonal left 40 beneath the overlap and friction straight up past a bolt and peg to a sloping belay at a flake (old piton). 140', 5.6

    Pitch 3: Move right, then face climb straight up a thin white streak on good rock (5.7) past several bolts. Step over a small overlap (5.8) and continue to a belay ledge 30 higher on the right with a 2-bolt anchor. 170', 5.8

    Pitch 4: Traverse right to a prominent arching corner and follow it (same as Ursa Major) to the tree covered ledge. 150', 5.5

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel or do another route to the top
History:  September 1980 - Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude

 

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