NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:58a on 07/22/14 - Temperature: 73.0 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 73.0 F - Barometric pressure: 29.580 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 100 %
BugCON 2: some mosquitoes, possible blackflys swarming with minimal biting
2 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Ursa Major (5.8 R)
Directions:  Start as for Time Traveler.
Description: A long and exciting climb. Protection is poor on the crux. Pitch 1 is an old one.
    Pitch 1: Climb the slab and right-facing corner up the slabs center to a small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. 130, 5.7

    Pitch 2: Climb directly over the 8 overlap above a fixed piton. Easier climbing past a flake and another pin, then diagonal right to a pocket (bolt). Belay on a higher stance (two bolt anchor). 165, 5.8R

    Pitch 3: Climb straight to the base of a prominent corner and a piton belay.

    Pitch 4: On slightly rotten rock, climb the corner (5.5) to the top, or when the corner turns left at its top, step over it and head straight up to a birch tree clump. Finish at the tree covered ledge. 5.5

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel or continue another route
History:  June 12,1980 - Todd Swain, Mike Cody

 

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