NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 10:29a on 06/26/19 - Temperature: 80.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 80.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.894 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 100 %
BugCON 5: climbers AND belayers require mosquito net & DEET for survival
5 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Franconia Notch / Russian Roulette (5.8+ R WI5)
Directions:  The route starts 10 feet below the second anchor of the "Black Dike".
Description: A new variation on the Black Dike ice route. A very bold and committing line.

Climb the first 2 pitches of the usual Black Dike ice route. The general direction of Russina Roulette is left, and upward of the second anchor, where a pine tree is visible toward the end of the new route. Traverse left for 25 feet toward the dihedral, which is built of big blocks. (The traverse doesn't offer any protection.) There is good protection inside the dihedral if placed in the right spots. Climb staright up, to the end of the route, and be careful while using the potentially loose blocks.
Gear: standard rock and ice racks
Descent: Continue to the top on the ridge and walk off on the normal decent trail to the left or rappel back into the Dike and rappel back to the start of the route.
History:  November 27,2004 - Aleksey Shuruyev, Katya Vorotnikova, Dimitry Shirokov

 

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