NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:54a on 02/27/15 - Temperature: 13.3 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 13.3 F - Barometric pressure: 29.523 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 49 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Whitehorse Ledge / Bit's N Pieces (5.11b a little R, but clean falls)
Directions:  Whitehorse Ledge, between the Slabs and the South Buttress on the left side of the Ethereal Buttress. Park in the climbers lot at the White Mountain Hotel. Hike along the cliff, through the rockfall area, past the Echo Roof, looking for a triangular buttress with 2 cracks - the Ethereal Buttress.
Description: A brilliant piece of rock, better than Western Lady and about as runout, but safe. John says "We both took some good whips on this one as it was done completely on-sight. Tom broke 3 bits at the second stance and I replaced them at the belay. (remember rawl drills and bit cleaning), nice hauling with the tag line from a tough stance."
    Pitch 1: Start up Loose Lips then go right to a bolt. Sustained thin climbing leads to a minimal stance with a second bolt. Above a small roof leads to easier climbing and a bush/bolt station.

Gear: Some small cams and not much else
Descent: Rappel with 2 ropes to the ground.
History:  1984 - Tom Callaghan & John Strand

 

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