Three years ago I entered Moab with the intention of ferreting out the location of Mill Creek and its routes. I had no problem getting directions from the eager sales clerk at a local but now defunct gear emporium which will remain nameless. That afternoon and the following day was spent scouring nearby canyons in the foothills of the La Sal Mts. I uncovered several likely crags but not a single bolt.

This October I returned to slick rock country. My first stop was at Pagan Mountaineering next to Moab's huge visitor center on Center St. While browsing my ears were being assaulted by a thick accent that I couldn't identify. I guess I've been on the road for too long. That's a Boston accent kiddo. The king's tongue as spoken by the good citizens from the Chemsfid (Chelmsford) region. The source of such an out of place accent was a peppery young woman named Jeanine who had left her hometown of Billerica eight years ago. Jeanine knew Mill Creek like the back of her strong, veined hands and forearms. First she gave me the address of the Moab Desert Adventures web site from which I could get directions, maps and route info.

Unfortunately only the routes at one sector of Mill Creek are listed - Horse Creek. When I returned to the shop with a printout Jeanine drew a topo for the Wicked Crag from memory. There are two other sectors - Hydro Crag and Sunnyside.

After ten days of humping cam-crammed packs up talus slopes and shredding hands, ankles, knees, and various body parts as well as clothing in pursuit of the ultimate crack experience I was ready for a day of sport climbing. Another native of Massachusetts happened to be at Wall Street on Potash Road outside of Moab one day. His name was Ben Rosenberg, a young man from Milton. The first thing Ben asked me was "Do you know Bill Boyle?" Apparently Bill was Ben's mentor during Ben's formative years. I knew I had a well schooled partner. After a day on the styrofoam "rock" of Wall Street I enticed Ben to check out Mill Creek with me.

The cottonwoods glowed a brilliant gold against an impossibly blue sky and the already frosted peaks of the La Sals as we escaped the turgid heat and morass of Moab during its Fat Tire Festival. After eight miles along Rt. 191 south of Moab the La Sal Mt. Loop Road is encountered on the left. It's after the Spanish Forks Arena. What you are turning onto is actually Old Airport Rd. which leads to the La Sal Loop Rd. in a quarter of a mile. At it's end turn right and follow this recently paved road for about ten miles passing a junction for Geyser Pass. Shortly the road crosses a cattle guard and drops into a sinewy canyon (still paved). Along this canyon is where the Mill Creek crags are located.

In the first tiny pullout (two cars max.) we encountered was parked a Toyota pickup with "Live Free Or Die" challenging us from the rear license plate. Catching sight of a young man just about to disappear into the roadside brush I beeped my horn to catch his attention. John was from Hanover, NH but now lived in the lovely Castle Valley. He informed me that we had indeed found the Horse Creek crag. There are rope ladders aiding the easy descent. The next crag down the road is the Wicked Crag. Beyond that the road crosses a bridge after the Oowah Lake junction. Shortly after on the ascent the Hydro Crag then Sunnyside pullouts appear. Access to these last two crags may be by rappel only.

John was really helpful, patiently directing us to good routes. The caveat on the street regarding Mill Creek is that the "easy" routes (i.e. under 11b) are run out with unintelligent bolt placements. We climbed six routes all under 5.11 and one toproped 12a. Every route was top quality. Most routes are unnamed in the guide but Slam Dunk at 10b was a gem. The rock is sandstone but it's the bullet hard quality that is found at the southeastern crags such as the New River Gorge and, particularly, The Red River Gorge. Climbs follow intricate lines of lips, edges and flakes up steep, featureless appearing faces. The twelve we did (Rt. 5) was a wonderfully gymnastic, overhanging arete on hueco type jugs. It's anchor is shared with the superb 5.10 climbing of Rt. 4. Bill Boyle would have felt right at home on the delicate edges of the Woodward Slab. Some of the climbs are along the walls of narrow slot side canyons. Too cold for October but perfect in the summer. Frigid Air looked superb but is aptly named.

The Real Skinny
Many of you have dealt with Moab in the past. You may know where the free camping is. Potash Rd beyond Wall Street continues to be available but the weekends can be a nightmare. Many of the sites along the River Road have been posted "No Camping". A good bet is to check out the Lazy Lizard Youth Hostel on Rt. 191 at the southern edge of Moab. A bunk there is only $8. For $6 you can tent it or camp in your vehicle and still have full use of the facilities including the kitchen. Showers are only $2. The cheapest Internet access in town is at the hostel. The Moab "public" library is not of the "free" variety. Nonresidents are asked to pay $20 for a library pass in order to use the Internet. At the hostel the computer is like a vending machine. Feed it a buck and you get ten minutes. There is no printer.

If you're at Indian Creek a short trip to the town of Monticello via the newly paved 18 mile scenic road (Rt. 2432 - Hart/s Draw Rd.) through the Blue Mountains off of Rt. 211 will get you to free Internet. access of an hour or more (if no one else is waiting to get on line) at the Monticello Library. From Moab it's about 55 miles down Rt. 191. Gas is cheaper in Monticello too.

The routes at Mill Creek were fun in a way that Canyonlands and towers never seem to be. Maybe not as memorable but a pleasant diversion nevertheless. Keep Mill Creek in mind for your next trip to the Moab region.

Ciao