"On The Road" with Steve Angelini - 6
For two years the open road has lead me to the far corners of the lower 48 in search of that dream of every climber - the endless summer. For two straight, bitter winters I learned that there really is no escape from the icy northern blasts as long as your requirements included the proximity of climbable rock. I'd tried Red Rocks, Nevada, Joshua Tree, California, Cochise Stronghold, Arizona. All southern, all windy, all cold and even snowy. The only path to toastiness was to get low - below 2000 feet that is. The Salton Sea of Southern California, or the Arizona desert towns of Yuma or Quartzite proved to be good interim answers to storm fronts. Camping is free on BLM lands (14 day limit). These are the winter headquarters of the "Snowbirds" - the vast armada of retirees who cruise America in their diesel pushers the size of Greyhound buses. They settle in at these BLM Long Term Visitor Areas (LTVAs) from September 15 to April 15 for the princely rental fee of $100. That's one option. Steve Angelini by Dave Benson

In the past I had given Bishop, California (elevation 4000feet) a chance to entice me into staying the winter but bitter cold and incessant stormy winds drove me away. Over last winter Bishop became the hot destination of boulderers from around the world, so I thought I owed the Owens Valley a second chance. Unlike my former visit the weather has remained summer-like so far through the end of November. Whether down in the Gorge or up on the hillside boulders the skin parade of summer climber attire remains in full frolic. Except for the occasional front I'm told these conditions can continue through the winter season. We'll see.

The Real Skinny
Make your first stop in town Wilson's Eastside Sports on Main Street. Save yourself a lot of time by picking up a copy of the Bishop Survival Kit. It's only $1. In it you'll learn about the location and open dates of all the free camping areas. The climber's favorite is Horton Creek. Magnificent views. Unfortunately Horton's closes at the end of October for deer migrations. So for the winter dirtbagger there is the newly opened "Pit" which is just north of town on the way to Owens River Gorge(ORG) on Pleasant Valley Dam Road. Further down this road is a pay campground where the best water in the valley can be obtained out of the well pump. It's on the way to The Happy Boulders anyway. The Survival Kit includes a map of Bishop and the surrounding area indicating all the great bouldering sites you've come here for as well as locations for the library (30min internet access - get your name on the list early), post office (93514), showers (the Wash Tub laundry where for $3 you don't even get a sink or mirror. Better at the town public pool. Showers $1. But the pool closes after Labor Day. Try the Millpond CG for coin operated showers if the campground is still open).

The best bet for a cleansing at any time of year is to schlep out to one of the many hot springs in the area. The nearest is Keough Hot Springs eight miles south of town where you can get soaked to soak at the enclosed spa or wait until after 8pm at which time the hot water is released from the pools back into the creek. It's free. Better yet to drive up Rt. 395 about 15 miles to Benton Crossing Road (at the green church with the lighted red cross in the window) Upon turning right onto this road a cattle guard is crossed. Immediately after the third cattle guard turn right onto a dirt road that winds sharply. Always bear left until you reach a parking area. Camping is allowed here. A boardwalk leads to Wild Willie's. A cement lined hot tub with seats and a bench. Further along Benton Crossing is a dirt road left which leads to Hilltop Hot springs. Here you can even adjust the temperature of the water. Glorious after a day on the rock.

Also at Wilson's you can rent crash pads by the day or the week if you didn't have room in your burro bag for yours. For $15 you can get the complete Bishop area Boulderer's Packet which includes the Survival Kit as well as topos to The Buttermilks, Happy/Sad Boulders, The Druid Stones and more.

There's a vast and friendly climbing community here. Picking up a partner or joining a group at the boulders is no problem. There hasn't been a day yet even midweek that every one of the parking areas at ORG haven't been packed.

Recently opened in Bishop is a Galen Rowell studio called The Mountain Light Gallery. Don't fail to spend time viewing the dozens of massive prints on display. The brilliance of color, contrast and, of course, light in each one of these awesome and un-enhanced photos is worth repeated return visits. All of Galen's books are available and are signed as are the prints. Just to give you an idea of how attractive a place Bishop is to live, this world renowned photographer has made it his home and the focal point of many of his photo subjects. One rule of thumb regarding the east side and cost of living - south on Rt. 395 is affordable, north is dear. Bishop resides near the upper middle. Property is on a par with mid Massachusetts. As the Mammoth area enters the stratosphere Bishop will not be far behind. For example, when gas was $1.59 in Bishop it was $1.42 to the south in Lone Pine, but $1.79 to the north in Mammoth and $2.09 further north in Lee Vining. Ouch!

Almost as popular as the climbing is Schat's Bakery on Main Street. Tour buses stop at this landmark every day. Get there early to score big at the day-old rack. Mondays are best. That's when there is not only the usual half price fare but 3/$1 goodies. There's a Schat's in Mammoth where the day old rack is always overflowing.

After you've enjoyed your gooey treat on the sunny veranda at Schat's cross Main St. to the Chamber of Commerce Visitor Ctr. Pick up a free "High Sierra Treasure Map". If you're an AAA member get a copy of their "Guide to the High Sierra". The AAA office is just off Main St. on Pine St.

More free camping abounds at the north end of ORG in the Pinon Pine area. At 6,000 feet it's cooler here than The Pit both night and day, but less boisterous and greener. If you have a warm sleeping bag I'd recommend staying here. A bike would be handy and it's a short coast down to the Gorge entrances. It's a great summer spot, bring water.

Free camping among spectacular scenery is always available anywhere along Buttermilk Rd. which forks right off of Rt. 168 (W Line St.) out of Bishop. This is Buttermilk Country. Home to the huge Peabody Boulders and scores of fun problems from V0 to V-Sharma.

I'm a reluctant boulderer and I had a most enjoyable few days here. You really can fall fifteen feet off a "highball" and walk away laughing thanks to modern technology - i.e. stacked crash pads. The support, encouragement and camaraderie amongst boulderers here is refreshing. Maybe it was out of deference to my age or my sketching, but when I found myself high on the King Tut Boulder on a problem with a dicey top out crash pads sprouted like dandelions below me, hands groped up to me like sea anemones waving in the ocean currents and soothing voices massaged my nerves with words of confidence. With that kind of support I had to send, and did. Everyone cheered. Another V2 bites the dust. I was led reverently to one of Sharma's latest. Picture a pane of pebble textured glass and you might be close to imagining how blank this problem appeared. Unbelievable.

There's so much here beyond the rock. The Owens Valley is a place you'll want to set root in. See you there.

Ciao

Installments: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 11 12