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Recently, while all of Bishop and the Owens River Valley including
The Gorge and the Buttermilks baked in the mid-80s I've been slugging
away at the numerous routes of Clark Canyon just fifteen miles north
of here. Marty Lewis, author of the guide to Owens River Gorge has
a guide to the Mammoth area crags of which Clark is "the most
developed sport climbing crag in the Mammoth area." And becoming
even more so from my experience. Each time I visit dozens of new
bolt lines seem to have materialized between existing routes in
the guide book as well as on crags not in the guide. No longer is
Clark just a short, four or five bolt climbing area. Tall walls
have been explored producing two and even three pitch bolted sport
climbs. The best part is that most routes fall in the 5.10 range,
accessible by most everyone. Many new routes have been established
at the sub 5.10 level as well. Even bolted 6s and 7s. The bolts
are frequent and closely spaced though a clip stick is handy as
some routes have very high first bolts. A strange trend and one
I've encountered more and more frequently. Also, route developers
seem to favor the open shut anchor with back up bolted biner here.
A fad I'd hoped had run its course as such death trap anchors are
being replaced with beefy, industrial strength steel construction
type snap links throughout Owens River Gorge. For the time being,
these new routes are safe and enjoyable.
The area seeing the most significant route development seems to
be Area 8 and Area 13 in Marty's old guide. Area 9 is the scene
of a wonderful three pitch 10c. I don't know the route name but
the climbing, as is all the climbing on Clark's welded tuff, is
superb.
From many of the sectors, such as Areas 2 and 3, and on up to the
high Area 4, the panorama of the snow covered Sierras that spans
the horizon for 180 degrees is about as spectacular as one could
require. The Sierra Nevada, my friend, is THE preeminent range of
America. If you're an outdoor enthusiast, this is the place to be.
It's simply intoxicating. I may never leave. Forget The Rockies,
The Winds, even the Cascades. The Sierra Nevada. That's the ticket.
OK, I'm usually the first to admit, that in every blue sky
there's a dark cloud. The road in to Clark Canyon (which isn't really
a canyon like Owens is) can and has been negotiated by the likes
of Honda Civics but a vehicle with higher clearance makes life a
bit smoother. It's really only that one downhill, water eroded stretch
after you've passed through the second, dilapidated barbed wire
gate with the funky closure mechanism that's a bit gnarly. One truism
of grazing land passage is that no two gate closures are alike.
Marty's directions are pretty adequate. A new guide is due out this
spring. The old guide is out of print and hard to find. In truth
the topos in the old guide are, at best, inadequate, vague and hard
to match up with the rock. Route descriptions are minimal to nonexistent.
Plenty of space exists for such "guide"ance but the author
neglects or declines to deliver. For Clarks a guide is hardly necessary.
Find out how to get there and assume every route is 10c.
Take the right just after a rest area on the west side of the highway
(camping overnight allowed). This is Owens river Rd. 2S07, though
it's not marked. Follow this to your first paved left into Big Springs
Campground (2S04). Bear right at the campground (last pit stop).
In 2.2 miles a road (now dirt) drops off sharply and roughly right
and down. This is 2S06. No sign. Follow this about a mile through
an open cattle gate to a second, closed, gate. Continue carefully
down a rough section through a meadow and bear right around and
up a ridge around behind which is Clark Canyon. Stay on well traveled
dirt roads all the way to the looped parking area. Good free camping
everywhere along this route as well as at the parking area. Follow
the only trail off the loop to the crags. The first fork (cairns)
leads to Area 13 site of numerous new routes of all grades. The
second fork leads right to Areas 1 - 4. The left fork leads to Areas
7 and 8 and The Potato Patch.
The Potato Patch was one of the first areas to be developed. The
rock is solid and overhanging with BIG holds. If you're a Gunkie
Junkie like me you'll love this area. Some routes, such as the incredible
King Spud hit the 11c grade but most are mid ten. No views. Sometimes
"breezy" (the local euphemism for rip-your-eyelashes-off
windy) but a great area for a hot day. Morning sun. Afternoon bitterness.
Areas 1, 2, 3, and 13 - morning sun, afternoon cool.
Area 4, all day sun and a view to die for. Routes from 5.8 to 11d.
Area 8, mid day to afternoon sun. The longest routes at Clark so
far. At this time there is one three pitch 10c and at least three
more three pitch routes in the making.
In Mammoth be sure to check out Mammoth Mountaineering if
only to lose your breath ogling the stratospheric prices especially
on clothing. What's the world coming to when underwear funnels $50
out of your wallet? Better to cruise the aisles of the second hand
gear store in the mall next to the Vons Supermarket where other
down-and-out folks like yourself are trying to interest you in their
out dated gear in order to be able to afford the pricey goodies
at M.M.
A super thrift shop called The Cast Off exists on Sierra Park Rd
in Mammoth. No technical climbing or camping gear but ski boots
and skis with bindings for $15 gives you an idea of the potential.
Some useful duds here for a buck or two. No telling what you'll
uncover. Hey, I can wear out quite a few pair of sweatpants for
the price of a pair of Pranas.
All this and a Shatz Bakery with a really choice day old rack.
Otherwise Mammoth is a pretentious Aspen wannabe populated by the
dot com riche in their Mercedes sport utes racing around pretending
they've got the tiger by the tail. Do I detect a note of envy here?
My life savings couldn't bankroll a half acre of God's green earth
on Mammoth's sacred grounds. Gas prices? Fahgeddaboudit. Expect
to pay about a quarter a gallon above Bishop's tariff. Fill up at
the Paiute Casino station in Bishop as I've advised before.
The whole of the Sierra East Side is a vagabond's paradise. Free
camping available just about anywhere you go once you learn the
ropes. LTVAs (long term permits for camping) now go for $200. Just
increased over last year's $100. Talk about a mark up. There's a
free two week limit at all BLM sites and a 28 day limit at Forest
Service sites. You can extend your stay on BLM land for $15 a week.
You can even camp right in downtown Mammoth across from the Visitor
Center as well as behind it. The Watchtower is the best bar in town
for good beer but Whiskey Creek has the TV sports scene wrapped
up. Expect a burger anywhere in town to wring a ten spot dry. I'm
not kidding.
Between all the camping options you could camp free throughout
the northern east side area for the entire season. In fact, a climber
could live year 'round here rent/mortgage free. In fact I used to
know of one such person though I've heard that he's taken root of
late.
Pity?
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