"On The Road" with Steve Angelini - 10
Clark Canyon - Mammoth, California

You might say I am an imposter. I'm supposed to be "on the road" and here I am temporarily anchored at Crowley Lakes, CA about 24 miles north of Bishop on route 395. I've decided that there's just too much to do here between the Sierras and the Whites to be leaving just as the warm weather has arrived. Besides, at 7000 feet in Crowley we're at least ten degrees cooler than Bishop. So I've rented a room for a month.

Steve Angelini by Dave Benson


Recently, while all of Bishop and the Owens River Valley including The Gorge and the Buttermilks baked in the mid-80s I've been slugging away at the numerous routes of Clark Canyon just fifteen miles north of here. Marty Lewis, author of the guide to Owens River Gorge has a guide to the Mammoth area crags of which Clark is "the most developed sport climbing crag in the Mammoth area." And becoming even more so from my experience. Each time I visit dozens of new bolt lines seem to have materialized between existing routes in the guide book as well as on crags not in the guide. No longer is Clark just a short, four or five bolt climbing area. Tall walls have been explored producing two and even three pitch bolted sport climbs. The best part is that most routes fall in the 5.10 range, accessible by most everyone. Many new routes have been established at the sub 5.10 level as well. Even bolted 6s and 7s. The bolts are frequent and closely spaced though a clip stick is handy as some routes have very high first bolts. A strange trend and one I've encountered more and more frequently. Also, route developers seem to favor the open shut anchor with back up bolted biner here. A fad I'd hoped had run its course as such death trap anchors are being replaced with beefy, industrial strength steel construction type snap links throughout Owens River Gorge. For the time being, these new routes are safe and enjoyable.

The area seeing the most significant route development seems to be Area 8 and Area 13 in Marty's old guide. Area 9 is the scene of a wonderful three pitch 10c. I don't know the route name but the climbing, as is all the climbing on Clark's welded tuff, is superb.

From many of the sectors, such as Areas 2 and 3, and on up to the high Area 4, the panorama of the snow covered Sierras that spans the horizon for 180 degrees is about as spectacular as one could require. The Sierra Nevada, my friend, is THE preeminent range of America. If you're an outdoor enthusiast, this is the place to be. It's simply intoxicating. I may never leave. Forget The Rockies, The Winds, even the Cascades. The Sierra Nevada. That's the ticket.

The Real Skinny
OK, I'm usually the first to admit, that in every blue sky there's a dark cloud. The road in to Clark Canyon (which isn't really a canyon like Owens is) can and has been negotiated by the likes of Honda Civics but a vehicle with higher clearance makes life a bit smoother. It's really only that one downhill, water eroded stretch after you've passed through the second, dilapidated barbed wire gate with the funky closure mechanism that's a bit gnarly. One truism of grazing land passage is that no two gate closures are alike. Marty's directions are pretty adequate. A new guide is due out this spring. The old guide is out of print and hard to find. In truth the topos in the old guide are, at best, inadequate, vague and hard to match up with the rock. Route descriptions are minimal to nonexistent. Plenty of space exists for such "guide"ance but the author neglects or declines to deliver. For Clarks a guide is hardly necessary. Find out how to get there and assume every route is 10c.

Directions: Rt. 395 north of Mammoth.
Take the right just after a rest area on the west side of the highway (camping overnight allowed). This is Owens river Rd. 2S07, though it's not marked. Follow this to your first paved left into Big Springs Campground (2S04). Bear right at the campground (last pit stop). In 2.2 miles a road (now dirt) drops off sharply and roughly right and down. This is 2S06. No sign. Follow this about a mile through an open cattle gate to a second, closed, gate. Continue carefully down a rough section through a meadow and bear right around and up a ridge around behind which is Clark Canyon. Stay on well traveled dirt roads all the way to the looped parking area. Good free camping everywhere along this route as well as at the parking area. Follow the only trail off the loop to the crags. The first fork (cairns) leads to Area 13 site of numerous new routes of all grades. The second fork leads right to Areas 1 - 4. The left fork leads to Areas 7 and 8 and The Potato Patch.

The Potato Patch was one of the first areas to be developed. The rock is solid and overhanging with BIG holds. If you're a Gunkie Junkie like me you'll love this area. Some routes, such as the incredible King Spud hit the 11c grade but most are mid ten. No views. Sometimes "breezy" (the local euphemism for rip-your-eyelashes-off windy) but a great area for a hot day. Morning sun. Afternoon bitterness.

Areas 1, 2, 3, and 13 - morning sun, afternoon cool.

Area 4, all day sun and a view to die for. Routes from 5.8 to 11d.

Area 8, mid day to afternoon sun. The longest routes at Clark so far. At this time there is one three pitch 10c and at least three more three pitch routes in the making.

More Real Skinny
In Mammoth be sure to check out Mammoth Mountaineering if only to lose your breath ogling the stratospheric prices especially on clothing. What's the world coming to when underwear funnels $50 out of your wallet? Better to cruise the aisles of the second hand gear store in the mall next to the Vons Supermarket where other down-and-out folks like yourself are trying to interest you in their out dated gear in order to be able to afford the pricey goodies at M.M.

A super thrift shop called The Cast Off exists on Sierra Park Rd in Mammoth. No technical climbing or camping gear but ski boots and skis with bindings for $15 gives you an idea of the potential. Some useful duds here for a buck or two. No telling what you'll uncover. Hey, I can wear out quite a few pair of sweatpants for the price of a pair of Pranas.

All this and a Shatz Bakery with a really choice day old rack. Otherwise Mammoth is a pretentious Aspen wannabe populated by the dot com riche in their Mercedes sport utes racing around pretending they've got the tiger by the tail. Do I detect a note of envy here? My life savings couldn't bankroll a half acre of God's green earth on Mammoth's sacred grounds. Gas prices? Fahgeddaboudit. Expect to pay about a quarter a gallon above Bishop's tariff. Fill up at the Paiute Casino station in Bishop as I've advised before.

The whole of the Sierra East Side is a vagabond's paradise. Free camping available just about anywhere you go once you learn the ropes. LTVAs (long term permits for camping) now go for $200. Just increased over last year's $100. Talk about a mark up. There's a free two week limit at all BLM sites and a 28 day limit at Forest Service sites. You can extend your stay on BLM land for $15 a week. You can even camp right in downtown Mammoth across from the Visitor Center as well as behind it. The Watchtower is the best bar in town for good beer but Whiskey Creek has the TV sports scene wrapped up. Expect a burger anywhere in town to wring a ten spot dry. I'm not kidding.

Between all the camping options you could camp free throughout the northern east side area for the entire season. In fact, a climber could live year 'round here rent/mortgage free. In fact I used to know of one such person though I've heard that he's taken root of late.

Pity?

Installments: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 11 12