Not really a lot to say right now. I think that the Instant Ice Report pretty much says it all. It was a really messy couple of days, but things are getting better. And with brutal cold coming in on Saturday and them more of the same on Monday, the ice should reform like gangbusters. Stay tuned... Like everyone in the Valley I'm hoping that we stay cold through the next 2 weeks for the upcoming Ice Fest.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For 27 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
January 31 - February 2 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
ERGONOMIC Ice Axe
After climbing for 15 seasons with the original Petzl ERGO ice tool, how does the new(ish) ERGONOMIC stack up?
The Snot Rocket -
WI 4
Depending on conditions this baby can be pretty moderate, or really hard. Either way, it's a really neat climb, in a very neat location.
Together we knew toil, joy and pain. My fervent wish is that the nine of us who were united in face of death should remain fraternally united through life.
—Maurice Herzog
Heading up for the Puffin, located between Standard Route and Penguin.
Frankenstein, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine
options - beware avalanche danger
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OK but top is a mess again
Dracula
kind of OK but top out bad!
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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One Of Our Articles: Getting Your (Ice) Rack Together
Ice racks are personal, like fine cars and wives. Every climber's rack is different, and putting one together can be as easy or as complicated as you like. Here's a few tips on putting one together that will do most of what you'll need here in New England.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
