NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
The White Mountain Report: Jan 25th, 2023
Oh boy...it's snow-time peeps. That's right, we are now in round 3 with Ma Nature in less than 10 daze. So here's my take on it all. I know everyone is all focused on the ICE. But for the time being, just be aware of the snow for a change. We've got LOTS of it now, with more on the way. And that white stuff is in places where we all don't usually think about it.
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Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest
Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For 30 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!

February 3-5 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
Sidecountry: John Branch
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Tales of death and life from the back country of sports.
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White Mountain Route Database and Guide
cauliflowerGully
Route of the Moment

Cauliflower Gully -  WI 2 II

2 pitches of nice gully climbing, providing a reasonable finish to any of the main climbs Mt. Willard. It tops out right at the top of the cliff, very near the overlook. While usually a Grade 2, it sometimes provides a nice Grade 3 bulge.

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The Staircase
Circling Scavengers
Vultures' Express
Klettersteig Ridge
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Our Routes Database currently contains
671 rock routes from 40 areas
123 ice routes from 12 areas.
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Quotes From the Ledge:
Climbers seem to forget that we said in our introduction that there were simply '50 classic routes', not 'the 50 classics'. We chose 50 from a list of about 120. Only a torturer will ever pry loose from our lips the names of those other 70 classics...
—Steve Roper
the American Alpine ClubSavage Mountain GearMount Washington Valley Climbers CooperativeMooney Mountain GuidesEverything you need to train right and train hard.
Greg leading a snowy Upper Hitchcock
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Mt Willard, Crawford Notch
Greg leading a snowy Upper Hitchcock
Mt Willard, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 25, 2023
With the Frankenstein Amphitheater still in piss-poor shape and some of the other trade routes mediocre at best, I am struggling to push the IceCON rating above a 2 so far. Everybody is kind of stuck at the North End, a few climbs at Frankenstein, the right side of Willard, Grafton and for those who can handle it - Lake Willoughby. Many of the routes we all count on simply haven't materialized. It's not like you can't climb ice, but it's not our best. Keep your fingers crossed that all this snow and the cold nights will pay off!
Huntington Ravine many options but serious avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK but a bit scrappy & snow covered Click to see route picture.
Dracula possible be careful of top out Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE
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One Of Our Articles: A Climber's Library (part 2)
Here are some thoughts about real climbing books, not guide books or collections of short stories.
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