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Incredibly busy this week, so this will be short and sweet. I have been getting calls, texts, emails, PM’s one Facebook, tweets (well maybe not tweets) all asking if there will be ice to climb this weekend. IMNSHO (in my not so humble opinion for the uninitiated) there will be NO ICE in the lower elevations this weekend! We have had 3 days of rain, totaling almost 3 inches, and what little was there on Monday, has been washed away. Sure there are fragments, but nothing that is safe in any way.
Petzl has come out with a new device for anchor attachment and to extend a rappel device for rappelling. Does it really make things easier, or is it just another finicky device that you’ll check out and then rarely use?
One thing to remember on the Eiger, never look up, or you may need a plastic surgeon.
Mike Pelchat topping out on the Open Book
Tuckerman Ravine, Mt. Washington, NH
Selected Ice Conditions effective December 1, 2016
Almost 3 inches of rain in 3 daze and waterfalls are everywhere. WOW!!! Needless to say there isn't any climbable ice anywhere in the lower elevations, and IMO probably nothing that's safe to climb on Mt Washington. That said there is a ton of water in the system that will surely provide some great climbing as soon as it cools down. Stay tuned folks...
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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