Yet another winter storm is on the way for this weekend. [YIKES] Unlike the others so far this season, this one purports to be a REALLY big one and the scuttlebutt is somewhere between 1-2 FEET! This one's going to come in later on Saturday and wind down Monday morning. So you can certainly get in your climbing fix on Saturday.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For 26 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technicalclinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
February 1-3 in North Conway, NH.
2018/2019 Annual Fundraiser Finished
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Our NEClimbs and White Mountain Report 2018/2019 individual
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Cinema Gully -
WI 2 II
Not actually a gully climb, Cinema is a classic alpine route in a wonderful location. The ice is often thin and difficult to protect, at least down low. Occasionally there are avalanches on this route, so be aware!
As far as I'm concerned, if someone eliminates the mental part of climbing, then we might as well all go play miniature golf.
—Greg Opland
In know, I know...there's no climber in the shot. But the light is very cool!
Diagonal and Mordor ice in the morning.
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine
options, but beware snow
Repentance
IN - P2 start tricky
Standard Route
IN - top pitch is much better
Dracula
IN
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
