Warm, cold, colder, warm, snow, rain... Rinse Repeat! I've used the term "roller coaster" and that was no idle metaphor. This winter has been entertaining at the very least. The particularly interesting thing is how it really hasn't had an overall negative effect on the 2017 ice season. Even after everything fell down 2 weeks ago, within less than a week it all came back. How about them apples?
Petzl has come out with a new device for anchor attachment and to extend a rappel device for rappelling. Does it really make things easier, or is it just another finicky device that you’ll check out and then rarely use?
Thin Air -
Inarguably the most popular climb on Cathedral Ledge and perhaps in the Valley. Plan on getting an early start if you don't want to be in line in the summer. In 2003 the bolts long protecting the traverse were chopped, so be prepared to place gear all the way across. In addition the 3-bolt anchor on top of the 3rd pitch was also chopped so once past the end of the traverse ledge you are committed to finish unless you are prepared to abandon gear!
Keith Sidle getting after it on a very fat Super Goofer
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 23, 2017
The ice is still pretty good right now, and even great in some places. As long as we don't get a big rain, or week of 50 degree daze, I would guess we should have this plus another week of climbable ice in the shady spots in the lower elevations. That would put us into April 1st, and these daze I would be very surprised if you could climb down here after that. But it's been an interesting season, so I suppose anything is possible.
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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