FLASH WEATHER UPDATE: We were supposed to get 3-4 inches of snow last night, but it turned into 4-6 of heavy wet stuff. The it turned to freezing rain and now it's drizzle. The current forecast is that it will slack off by mid-day and clear by evening. The weekend looks to be good with temps in the low 30's during the day and teens at night. Carry on...
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In Spring 2011 Wild Country introduced the 3rd generation of their innovative Friend camming device. They are marketing them as lighter, with a greater expansion, and easier to use than the 2nd generation Technical Friends. Do they stack up?
Revolt of the Dike Brigade -
5.11a (5.9+ R)
If you like hard face climbing, this just might be one for you. The first pitch can be toproped easily by climbing Beelzebub and stepping left at the top of the corner to the 2-bolt anchor.
Then came a bigger fear. Not the threat of imminent injury, but the fear that if I didn't go back up, I would be a chickenshit forever.
—John Sherman
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 26, 2012
In spite of the warmup, pretty much all of the ice is still OK so far. Some climbs that are in direct sun all day are a bit punky, but most all are still quite climbable., There is a winter storm slated to come through Thursday night and Friday, but at this point it seems that it's going to be mostly an ice, sleet and some snow event and not rain. [fingers & toes crossed] Sure it's going to put a crust on things, but temps will remain cold at night so we shouldn't loose what we have. In fact things should build. Just be careful getting up here to go climbing. The driving looks like it's going to be pretty funky through Friday night.
Huntington Ravine
good stuff, avy danger
Repentance
still good
Standard Route
very good
Dracula
good
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Here's one of those climbs that's on the tick-list of many ice climbers.
Diagonal, Cathedral Ledge
NEClimbs Store - Featured Product
Robert Frost's 2nd climbing DVD follows Dave Graham and a group of gifted and driven athletes as they travel along Europe's autoroute, in search of their next test-piece.
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Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
