OK OK OK - I stand a bit corrected. After the meltdown we went through and in spite of the longer days and the stronger March sun - some the ice in some places has kind-of come back. In fact to the extent conditions looks a bit like they often do in the very early season.
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Remission -
WI 5+ IV
If you think Repentance is hard, this one is wicked hard! Even when it's in, it presents exceptional difficulties - and it is rarely in.
Every time I go out and do something, Hans panics and starts trying to beat me. He's like a dog humping your leg.
—Dean Potter
BEWARE! That ice above the North End is just waiting to come down.
Unicorn, Cathedral Ledge
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 1, 2026
Nope sorry, unfortunately this isn't an April Fools Day Report! Clearly the past few days of warm temps and then rain have been the death knell of the 2025-26 ice season! 46 degrees this morning all through in the Notch...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
