We have a ton of moisture in the system right now, which of course is a MAJOR plus. Of course it came in the form of 18+ inches of fine white powder. Enough that I had to get out raking my roof a big part of Wednesday. [SIGH] Now that that's done, the main issue right now is how cold it is. Temps today (Thursday) will struggle to get in the teens, and will drop well below zero Thursday night.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Dracula -
WI 4
If you have 60 meter ropes you can climb any of the variations in a single pitch. The left side (4+) is easier than the right, with a fixed pin about 30' up after the initial bulge. You can belay on a ledge on the left before the final difficulties if desired. Stemming is a useful skill. The right side (4/5) features a significantly more difficult start, often with minimal protection. The last 30-40' affords more stemming.
I had climbed my mountain, but I must still live my life.
—Sherpa Tenzing Norgay
Looking good in a sunny Amphitheater, on a chilly January morning.
Chia, Frankenstein, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 28, 2026
Overall there is a LOT of ice out there right now. From everything I hear, the better conditions are in the sun where the ice can get plastic. Stuff in the. Shade is hard, brittle, and it's not getting refreshed like we all would like.
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
been done
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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One Of Our Articles: Another Day At Ducks Head (a.k.a. Trollville)
Duck's Head (Trollville) is a great place to toprope or to get your mixed climbing skills in order. This day was a particularly great time...plus we ran into a couple of mixed-masters and got to watch them at work!
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.