WOW today sure felt like mid-March to me. Most especially around noon when it got sunny. The roof is dripping and the snow compacting as I watch. Of course it was still a short day, not like those "so much longer at last" late March ones that portend spring. I gotta say that the unexpected warmth and the sun on my face sure felt good after a string of low double and single-digit days and nights.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Dracula -
WI 4
If you have 60 meter ropes you can climb any of the variations in a single pitch. The left side (4+) is easier than the right, with a fixed pin about 30' up after the initial bulge. You can belay on a ledge on the left before the final difficulties if desired. Stemming is a useful skill. The right side (4/5) features a significantly more difficult start, often with minimal protection. The last 30-40' affords more stemming.
Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are naught
without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the
happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step;
and from the beginning think what may be the end.
—Edward Whymper, 1865, the first ascent of the Matterhorn
Mid December climbers on Standard Route at Frankenstein
Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 10, 2026
We sure have had a warmup. Rain, slush and now 47 degrees on Saturday afternoon! Gotta say that this reset should help once it gets cold again...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
Silas Rossi did it on 1/6... MIXED!
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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One Of Our Articles: Getting Your (Ice) Rack Together
Ice racks are personal, like fine cars and wives. Every climber's rack is different, and putting one together can be as easy or as complicated as you like. Here's a few tips on putting one together that will do most of what you'll need here in New England.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
