We have a ton of moisture in the system right now, which of course is a MAJOR plus. Of course it came in the form of 18+ inches of fine white powder. Enough that I had to get out raking my roof a big part of Wednesday. [SIGH] Now that that's done, the main issue right now is how cold it is. Temps today (Thursday) will struggle to get in the teens, and will drop well below zero Thursday night.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
The Cave Route -
WI 3
Climb straight up a curtain to some trees and a ledge beneath a short rock wall. Rap from a 2-bolt anchor or the trees, continue up and right to some other trees, or traverse left and walk off.
When you consider the ratio of adrenaline to dollars spent, I think ice climbing is a pretty economical.
—Mike T (from the NEClimbs forum)
Looking good in a sunny Amphitheater, on a chilly January morning.
Chia, Frankenstein, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 28, 2026
Overall there is a LOT of ice out there right now. From everything I hear, the better conditions are in the sun where the ice can get plastic. Stuff in the. Shade is hard, brittle, and it's not getting refreshed like we all would like.
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
been done
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
S U B S C R I B E to the White Mountain Report
The White Mountain Report is a weekly email newsletter that
provides you with the most up to date information about rock and ice climbing
in New England. To get it delivered to your mailbox every Thursday all you have
to do is SUBSCRIBE. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you
a dime!
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
