WOW today sure felt like mid-March to me. Most especially around noon when it got sunny. The roof is dripping and the snow compacting as I watch. Of course it was still a short day, not like those "so much longer at last" late March ones that portend spring. I gotta say that the unexpected warmth and the sun on my face sure felt good after a string of low double and single-digit days and nights.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Pegasus -
WI 3
Pegasus is often climbed in two short pitches, but with 60-meter ropes can easily be done in one. In the early and late season the top-out is often thin with running water in the middle & right. On occasion a free-standing column comes in on the left side (5). Several variations often present themselves on the right, just left of the Hobbit gully.
Then came a bigger fear. Not the threat of imminent injury, but the fear that if I didn't go back up, I would be a chickenshit forever.
—John Sherman
Mid December climbers on Standard Route at Frankenstein
Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 8, 2026
When I was out taking pictures today I was happy to see that overall the ice is looking pretty darn good. Sure some things aren't in at this time, but overall there is ice to be climbed at almost all grades. Overall just be aware of the top outs and you should be OK. Enjoy...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
still building but not yet
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
S U B S C R I B E to the White Mountain Report
The White Mountain Report is a weekly email newsletter that
provides you with the most up to date information about rock and ice climbing
in New England. To get it delivered to your mailbox every Thursday all you have
to do is SUBSCRIBE. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you
a dime!
The days of 36 frames in a film roll and no surety that you will actually get a good image are long gone. Digital cameras are all the rage, and even cell phone cameras can do a great job. Here's some tips on picking a good digital camera, if you decided to go in that direction.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
