Amazingly enough, through all of this warmth, much of the ice hung in. That is most certainly due to the very cold December. Many things formed fairly well, and even now we had some nights that were cold enough to help rebuild the climbs that were somewhat fat. A good example is Diagonal. The wall was almost clear after the last big rain, but started building again during a cold snap right afterward. Enough that it attracted the attention of Peter Doucette and Ryan Driscoll! I was on my way home from an early gym session Tuesday morning and just noticed that there was someone on the dike! Knowing full well what was going on, I rushed home and grabbed the big camera and took a series of pictures over the next hour.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Hobbit Couloir -
WI 4
Climb the gully on the right side of Pegasus. Continue straight up the runnel to the trees at the top. Placing protection is strenuous but you can stem up the rock as you go.
What we get from this is adventure and just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life.
—George Mallory
Peter Doucette on the pillar with Ryan Driscoll belaying.
Diagonal, Cathedral Ledge
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 15, 2026
Everything should be solid by Saturday, and the weekend should be great. As always after a thaw it's important to evaluate just how well the ice is attached to the rock and how much water is running. And also how frozen the turf still is. Diagonal was done on Tuesday, and pillar fell down on Thursday! I'm still predicting lots of ice in good shape for Ice Fest in early February. Stay tuned...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
Silas Rossi did it on 1/6... MIXED!
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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When I first began climbing I had no idea there was such a thing as climbing literature. A few years into it, I was hanging out with all these AMC types. It seemed they were all a hundred years old and knew a lot more than me. I made a fool of my self in a conversation when I admitted to not knowing who Fred Becky was
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
