OK OK OK - I stand a bit corrected. After the meltdown we went through and in spite of the longer days and the stronger March sun - some the ice in some places has kind-of come back. In fact to the extent conditions looks a bit like they often do in the very early season.
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Twenty Below Zero Gully -
WI 4 + III
Twenty Below is hardly your typical gully climb. In fact it's not a gully at all. The first climb done at the Lake, it's a very popular route. always in the sun it's usually running water so be sure to wear your rain gear! Altho it was originally climbed in 3 pitches, with 60 meter ropes it can be done in 2. There is a niche/cave on the left about 1/2 way up that provides a reasonably protected standa for the belayer.
If you want to climb it badly enough, you will. So... why bother ?
—Doug Scott
BEWARE! That ice above the North End is just waiting to come down.
Unicorn, Cathedral Ledge
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 1, 2026
Nope sorry, unfortunately this isn't an April Fools Day Report! Clearly the past few days of warm temps and then rain have been the death knell of the 2025-26 ice season! 46 degrees this morning all through in the Notch...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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One Of Our Articles: Another Day At Ducks Head (a.k.a. Trollville)
Duck's Head (Trollville) is a great place to toprope or to get your mixed climbing skills in order. This day was a particularly great time...plus we ran into a couple of mixed-masters and got to watch them at work!
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.